18th February: Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Kaja wasn’t well at all today, feeling nauseous and in pain. I went down for breakfast by myself of toast, eggs, fruit, and slightly too strong and bitter coffee, before chilling in the lobby on the laptop for much of the hottest hours of the day. Beer is cheaper than water, so I might’ve also had one of those!
I gradually began to feel nauseous too as the day wore on but decided that I would get out regardless. I got Kaja some plain snacks and water (we think the filtered water downstairs might be a culprit as it tastes a little funky) and headed out into the late afternoon. I made my way northeast towards Street 240, via roads lined with a strange combination of frangipani trees and open sewers. Phnom Penh certainly provides plenty of contrasts.
After finding the restaurant I was after, I ordered a banh mi (Vietnam came one day early!) and mango smoothie. As I was the only customer – not surprising at 4pm on a Tuesday – they gave me all kinds of goodies! The cold pandan tea was very refreshing after my walk in the sun. The best thing though was an amazing cold creamy soup of coconut milk, jelly, grains, nuts, and jujube! The banh mi was unusual too with what tasted like stuffing, crispy noodles, and pickles alongside the tofu and salad.
I continued east, dodging cars and bikes, until reaching the southern edge of the Royal Palace and Wat Botum Park. As sunset approached, the night market was being set up and people were starting laps for their daily exercise. In the park was a giant statue dedicated to both the Cambodians lost in the struggle for Vietnamese reunification and also the Vietnamese lost overthrowing the Khmer Rouge. It felt like a symbol of what should be a strong bond between these two nations.
After crossing another couple of chaotic roads, I arrived on the riverside. At this point, the Tonle Sap joins with the vast Mekong. Almost simultaneously, the Bassac (or Hau) splits off marking the first tendrils of the delta of Southeast Asia’s great river. It was good to stretch my legs for a good walk after struggling a bit recently, but night-time in Phnom Penh isn’t the ideal time! Pushed onto the road by the constant pavement parking, food stalls, and general clutter I was constantly in the gutter. Rats darted out from the drains and broken concrete, whilst oncoming traffic veered all ways kicking up dust and exhaust. It was still over 30 degrees. Each road crossing required constant looking left-right-left-right-left as bikes and tuktuks used both sides of the road to travel in each direction! I was proud of my 12 km walk in these conditions and didn’t seem to be suffering too badly. Kaja wasn’t so good and only managed a few snacks in the cool of the room. Hopefully it’s a quick bug.
