2nd March: Quy Nhon, Vietnam

I popped out for an espresso and, as usual in Vietnam, was also given a cold tea for free to go with it. We took our time getting moving again as we’re both pretty tired. For lunch though, we found a nice little restaurant that made us crispy pancakes filled with herbs, vegetable noodles, guava juice, and a lime soda. We also got them to make us a couple of banh mis for the road, with everything coming to £4.50. I love this country!

It was a bit too late to head out to the beach we’d planned, as that meant getting a taxi to an isolated peninsula and then some kind of uncertain shuttle bus set up onwards. Instead, we took a Grab south to another spot we’d heard about. After a 25-minute drive over steep hills, we arrived at Bai Xep.

The village here is situated behind a small headland, with beaches on either side. We walked through the tiny alleys before coming out onto a beach dedicated to fishing. Scores of round plastic thung chai sat on the sandy beach. Each belonged to a fisherman as a means of access to the small boats scattered offshore. It was an interesting scene, but not what we’d come for.

After getting lost again in the back alleys, past front rooms with fishing equipment dangling from the walls, a friendly guy pointed uss in the right direction. The sea became visible once more at the end of the path. We walked down the steps and found our tropical paradise! A curve of golden sand led around to sandstone rocks. Palm trees hung above the cove. There were just enough people here to feel comfortable, without it being busy. On the main beach in Quy Nhon, we’d have felt very exposed being the only ones on the beach during the heat of the day!

We enjoyed a few hours of afternoon sun as it gradually fell lower and weakened. The water was warm, but the seabed fell away very quickly and the amount of plastics floating put us off diving in properly. Instead, we watched as kids played and fishermen came in and out on thung chais. The sun fell behind the hills before 5 but not before gloriously lighting the colourful fishing boats and the island beyond.

Getting back was no problem in another Grab. We picked up a couple of cheap local dishes and some food for tomorrow’s train journey and that was it. Our time in Quy Nhon was over. I’d like to think we’ll be back one day.